December 2025

TL;DR Ledger attachments are excellent—when the wall can safely take them. In Austin, many problem walls (brick veneer, stone cladding, EIFS/stucco, foam sheathing, questionable framing, low door thresholds) make ledgers risky or code‑noncompliant. A free‑standing deck avoids water intrusion at the building envelope, reduces inspection friction, and often installs faster on remodels. The trade‑off is […]

TL;DR If your deck frame is solid but the surface looks beat, resurfacing can deliver a like‑new look fast—if the structure, fasteners, and clearances check out. Austin‑proof resurfacing means verifying joist spacing and crown, replacing corroded hardware, correcting ledger/footing issues, and adding moisture defenses (joist tape, end‑grain sealers). Then choose cooler, light‑tone composite/PVC or porcelain

TL;DR Most “cheap” deck bids in Austin are missing work you’ll end up paying for later. The classic scope gaps hide in site prep and access, footing engineering, ledger and flashing details, rails and stairs, electrical and lighting, demolition and haul-off, and permits/inspections. Close them by demanding line-item scope with assumptions, drawings showing load paths

TL;DR A Central Texas deck lasts longer (and feels better to use) when you treat maintenance like a rhythm, not a rescue mission. The Austin-proof plan is simple: once per year, run a structured pass over safety hardware, drainage, end-grain, and finishes; then layer in quick monthly habits during the sunny season. Expect about 2–4

TL;DR Great stain jobs fail in Austin when prep is rushed. Lock in longevity by working a clean → strip (if needed) → brighten → dry → sand → dust‑off → stain sequence. Target <15% moisture content before finishing, neutralize cleaners with a brightener, and sand only to open pores (60–80 grit on flats, 100+

TL;DR Austin decks fail early when the wrong metals are exposed to heat, UV, and sudden downpours. Choose corrosion‑resistant fasteners (hot‑dip galvanized or stainless—304 inland, 316 near pools/splash) matched to your lumber chemistry; use structural screws instead of lag bolts where possible; and detail high‑temp butyl flashings with real terminations (end dams, counter‑flashing, drip edges).